L-ascorbic acid was first isolated in 1927, but as early as the 18th century, the British navy supplemented the food supply at sea with lemon juice because it was discovered that citrus fruits could prevent the onset of scurvy.
L-ascorbic acid promotes the vital absorption of iron in the intestines and plays an important role in the formation of teeth, gums, connective tissue. and bones. It is also involved in various metabolic processes in the body.
Ascorbic acid: a deficiency often has serious consequences
L-ascorbic acid belongs to the so-called water-soluble vitamins, so an overdose is usually excreted in the urine. Side effects are only to be expected if very large quantities of food supplements containing vitamin C are taken. In the long run, this overtaxes the excretory organs. Abdominal cramps, nausea and diarrhea may occur. People who have kidney problems or gout must even expect kidney stones as a result of an overdose.
However, an undersupply of L-ascorbic acid can be much more dangerous. Symptoms of a deficiency include increased susceptibility to infection, loose teeth, joint and limb pain, poor wound healing, weakness and fatigue due to a general reduction in performance, and depression. In the worst case, it even leads to chronic lung damage, since the free radicals get out of hand and this results in a lasting disturbance of the oxygen exchange. The best-known deficiency symptom, however, is the already mentioned scurvy. The former seafarer’s disease is very rare today, however, in former times it led in most cases to death.
L-ascorbic acid in skin care
L-ascorbic acid plays an enormously important role not only in nutrition, but also in cosmetics. It has a triple effect against the dreaded skin aging. On the one hand, the vitamin can lighten unwanted pigment spots, on the other hand, it scavenges free radicals and has an antioxidant effect. In addition, it ultimately supports the formation of collagen. In a stronger concentration, the vitamin is also used keratolytically, which means that it then acts like a peeling. Manufacturers of high-quality cosmetic products have long since recognized the benefits of L-ascorbic acid. Many active ingredient-concentrates already contain up to 20 percent L-ascorbic acid, effectively improving the skin’s own collagen production and protecting the skin from harmful environmental and oxidative damage. By using such products, the complexion appears much clearer and fresher. Meanwhile, the vitamin can be found in very many areas of cosmetics. Whether day or night care, self-tanner, anti-age product or concentrated additional care for particularly stressed skin, L-ascorbic acid with its numerous positive properties is an optimal ingredient for sophisticated care products.
L-ascorbic acid is involved in the differentiation of skin cells. It stimulates the fibroblasts, the hydroxylation of the proline in the protein strands of the collagen molecule and stimulates the connective tissue metabolism. With this stimulation, mRNA expression of enzymes that produce collagen is promoted. In addition, collagen degradation is inhibited (by increasing collagenase inhibitor proteins). The degree of differentiation of ceramides also increases under vitamin C influence.
It is often combined with special other active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and aloe vera. We also like to use vitamin C in combination with tocopherols (vitamin E). In this combination, L-ascorbic acid can regenerate the depleted tocopherol and a longer antioxidant protection time is thus possible.
Fact Sheet Vitamin C
Alternative names: L-ascorbic acid, antiscorbutic vitamin (obsolete), 3-oxo-L-gulonic acid-γ-lactone.
CAS number: 50-81-7
Nature: odorless, crystalline, white powder
Melting point: 190 to 192 degrees Celsius
Solubility: highly soluble in water
Molecular Formula: C6H8O6
Physiological function: antioxidant effect, radical scavenger, coenzyme for prolyl-4-hydroxylase
L-ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations
Meanwhile, L-ascorbic acid is one of the most important vitamins for healthy skin function. It contributes to the formation and maintenance of connective tissue function and is tremendously important for wound healing. In the long term, connective tissue even becomes brittle if the body is not sufficiently supplied with the vitamin.
In principle, fat-soluble vitamins penetrate the skin better, since water-soluble vitamins are immediately transported away. Today, however, vitamin C is incorporated into cosmetic products in such a way that it can nevertheless develop its effect optimally. This is ensured, for example, by other substances that protect the vitamin. Airtight aluminum tubes also help to ensure that the vitamin retains its effectiveness.
The concentration of L-ascorbic acid in high-quality cosmetic products should be at least two percent. Users need hardly expect side effects; in rare cases, a strong concentration can cause mild skin irritation.
We use an effective L-ascorbic acid ester (otherwise vitamin C quickly degrades in aqueous preparations and the entire formulation becomes yellowish-brownish) and in two-phase products also pure L-ascorbic acid. There is also the possibility of using dehydro-L-ascorbic acid, which is then converted to L-ascorbic acid in the body.
We like to work with this raw material containing vitamin C:
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Conclusion: L-ascorbic acid is a real all-rounder
Not only the inside of our body, but also the skin is in urgent need of vitamin C. It protects against dangerous free radicals and has an antioxidant effect. No wonder it is increasingly included in high-quality cosmetics: L-ascorbic acid is very well tolerated, has almost only benefits, but virtually no side effects. Cosmacon will be happy to develop appropriate formulations with vitamin C and its derivatives for you according to your wishes.
Sources:
Vitamin C: One compound, several uses. Advances for delivery, efficiency and stability.; Caritá AC, Fonseca-Santos B, Shultz JD, Michniak-Kohn B, Chorilli M, Leonardi GR.Nanomedicine. 2020 Feb;24:102117.
Anti-aging and brightening effects of a topical treatment containing vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract: A split-face, randomized controlled trial.; Rattanawiwatpong P, Wanitphakdeedecha R, Bumrungpert A, Maiprasert M.J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020 Mar;19(3):671-676.
Advances in dermatology using DNA aptamer „Aptamin C“ innovation: Oxidative stress prevention and effect maximization of vitamin C through antioxidation.; Choi S, Han J, Kim JH, Kim AR, Kim SH, Lee W, Yoon MY, Kim G, Kim YS.J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020 Apr;19(4):970-976.
The Anti-Ageing and Whitening Potential of a Cosmetic Serum Containing 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic Acid.; Zerbinati N, Sommatis S, Maccario C, Di Francesco S, Capillo MC, Rauso R, Herrera M, Bencini PL, Guida S, Mocchi R.Life (Basel). 2021 Apr 29;11(5):406.
Effectiveness of a formulation containing peptides and vitamin C in treating signs of facial ageing: three clinical studies;. Escobar S, Valois A, Nielsen M, Closs B, Kerob D.; Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Apr;43(2):131-135